Made to Order Barefoot Oxford Shoes

Vegetable-tanned leather, crafted by artisan tanneries, represents a pinnacle of quality and tradition in leather production. Rooted in age-old techniques, these leathers are tanned using natural tannins extracted from tree bark which impart a unique, earthy colour and distinct warm tones that deepen and improve over time.
Artisan tanneries emphasize meticulous craftsmanship and environmental responsibility. Each hide is treated in a slow, labor-intensive process that can take up to two months to complete, ensuring a durable and resilient material with a rich, luxurious texture. The natural ingredients used in the tanning process not only contribute to the leather’s hypoallergenic properties but also produce a material that is biodegradable and less harmful to the environment compared to chemically tanned leathers.
The resulting vegetable-tanned leather is highly prized for its classic, understated aesthetic and its ability to develop a patina that enhances its character with age. This makes it particularly good for our wallets and belts, and especially stands out in our shoes, where the hallmark of true craftsmanship is evident in every piece. Each item reflects the individuality of the hide and the personal touch of the artisan, making vegetable-tanned leather goods not just products, but stories of heritage and skill.

Italy is renowned for its exquisite leather, produced by iconic tanneries that meld traditional methods with modern innovation. Among these, Maryam, Badalassi Carlo, and Conceria Cloe stand out as exemplars of Italian craftsmanship.

Maryam Tannery is located in the historic leather-producing region of Tuscany. Known for its meticulous attention to detail and commitment to quality, Maryam specializes in vegetable-tanned leather that is cherished for its supple texture and deep, vibrant tones. The leathers produced by Maryam are used by high-end fashion houses and bespoke shoemakers, valued for their ability to develop a beautiful patina over time, which tells a unique story of each product and its wearer.

Badalassi Carlo Tannery also thrives in Tuscany, where it has honed its craft over generations. This tannery is famous for its artisanal approach to vegetable tanning, producing rich, waxy leathers like the celebrated Pueblo leather, known for its distinctive matte finish and rustic aesthetics. Badalassi Carlo leathers are dense yet flexible, making them ideal for durable goods like wallets, belts, and especially footwear, providing an unparalleled blend of beauty and practicality.

Conceria Cloe operates from its base in Ponte a Egola, Tuscany. It stands out for combining traditional techniques with innovative technologies to create high-fashion leathers. Cloe's products range from classic vegetable-tanned leathers to more exotic finishes that incorporate vibrant colours and textures. The tannery supplies leather to some of the most prestigious brands in the world, who seek out its products for their exceptional quality and innovative finishes that can transform any accessory into a statement piece.

Each of these tanneries, with their deep roots in the Tuscan leather tradition, reflects the region's rich heritage while embracing the challenges of contemporary design demands. They not only contribute to Italy's reputation as a leader in leather craftsmanship but also influence global fashion with their high-quality, beautifully aged leather goods.

J&FJ Baker is the last remaining traditional oak bark tannery in Britain, boasting a rich heritage and an enduring commitment to quality that has persisted for centuries. Situated in Colyton, Devon, this family-run tannery has mastered the art of slow craftsmanship, which is evident in every piece of leather it produces.

One of the most notable offerings from J&FJ Baker is its Russian leather, a luxury material steeped in history and famed for its distinctive qualities. The tannery uses a unique and historic recipe that dates back to the 18th century, combining oak bark tanning with various exotic ingredients such as birch oil, which infuses the leather with its trademark smoky aroma and enhances its water-resistant properties.

Russian leather from J&FJ Baker is renowned for its characteristically deep, rich brown tones and its smooth yet rugged texture, which makes it both durable and aesthetically pleasing. The tanning process itself is labor-intensive and can take up to 14 months, ensuring that each hide is imbued with the full depth of its natural color and achieves a strength that is well-suited for luxury goods.

This type of leather is popular among makers of fine shoes, belts, and luxury leather goods who seek materials that offer an exceptional aging quality. As it ages, J&FJ Baker’s Russian leather develops a lustrous patina that enhances its beauty and testifies to its robustness and long-lasting appeal. This storied leather not only carries with it a sense of history and tradition but also offers unmatched functionalities that luxury crafters highly value. Thus, J&FJ Baker's Russian leather represents a perfect confluence of heritage, craftsmanship, and luxury, making it a coveted choice for high-end leather connoisseurs around the world.

Curtipiel is a distinguished artisan tannery nestled in the rich cultural landscape of Galicia, Spain. Renowned for its adherence to traditional tanning methods, Curtipiel specializes in handcrafting exquisite shell cordovan leather using purely vegetable-tanned processes. Their dedication to age-old techniques and meticulous craftsmanship distinguishes them in the world of luxury leather production.

Shell cordovan is a rare and highly sought-after leather, known for its smooth, lustrous finish and exceptional durability. It is derived from the fibrous flat muscle (or shell) beneath the hide on the rump of the horse. At Curtipiel, each piece of shell cordovan is treated with a precise and laborious tanning process that can take up to six months to complete. This prolonged tanning phase, combined with the use of natural vegetable tannins, results in a leather that is not only robust and water-resistant but also beautifully rich in color.

The vegetable tanning process at Curtipiel involves only natural ingredients such as tree bark and other plant materials, which ensures that the leather remains environmentally friendly while enhancing its biodegradable properties. This method also allows the leather to age gracefully, developing a unique patina over time that is highly prized by leather enthusiasts.

Curtipiel’s shell cordovan leather is a testament to the art of leather making. It features a distinctive glossy finish that is smooth to the touch and exhibits a depth of colour that synthetic tanning processes simply cannot replicate. This makes it especially popular in the creation of high-end shoes, luxury leather goods, and bespoke accessories where durability and aesthetic appeal are paramount.

By maintaining a profound respect for traditional practices in a world inclined towards rapid industrial methods, Curtipiel not only preserves the heritage of Spanish leather artisanship but also produces leather goods that offer a slice of history, crafted by hand with unmatched quality and care.